Making the Most of Police Stops

Our daughter Anna with a friendly Kenyan police officer near Mt. Elgon, Kenya

How to Turn Unplanned Police Stops into Positive Experiences

If you're exploring East Africa by road, chances are you’ll encounter the region’s omnipresent police barriers. As a self-driver, how should you handle these unplanned stops? How can you turn them into enriching travel experiences?

First, let’s clarify the primary purpose of these police barriers. Too often, many of us assume that they’re set up by “corrupt police officers” looking to make money off travelers. While it’s true that, occasionally, police officers supplement their modest salaries this way, these barriers primarily serve to ensure road safety and general security. They are there to protect you and the public. Understanding this helps you stay calm and respond appropriately when you are flagged down.

Traffic in East Africa is generally more dangerous than in the Northern Hemisphere due to poorly maintained roads, overloaded vehicles, and a widespread disregard for traffic rules. The police are working to manage this and to ensure the safety of everyone on the road. In some cases, they even provide escorts through unsafe territory at night.

Overall, East African police officers are friendly people. They may look stern when stopping you, but that’s just part of their job.

So, what should you do when you’re flagged down at a police barrier?

First, discard the stereotype that their only intention is to extract money from you. This misconception often prevents a friendly, relaxed exchange. In fact, many times, police officers at these posts are simply bored and genuinely curious about where you're from, where you’re headed, and how you like their country. They enjoy chatting with foreigners.

Smile and relax. You’ve got nothing to hide. (If you’ve indeed broken a traffic rule, it’s best to admit it, accept the consequences, and move on. Traffic fines in East Africa are usually not expensive and can be paid easily through the police app or Mobile Money.)

Surprise them by reacting differently than most people. Police officers are used to being yelled at, especially by foreigners who often respond angrily and threaten consequences saying things like, "You’re messing with the wrong person!" Sure, that might work, but you’ll only antagonize them. Doing the obvious will provoke them to make your life as difficult as possible while they can. After all, they are only human too. Yes, you might know someone influential, but is it really worth it? I learned this lesson long ago in Ghana when I tried to educate a police officer about traffic rules after he fined me for driving the right way down a one-way street—while all the other traffic was going the wrong way (picture below). Looking back, I realize how silly and arrogant I was. Yes, I knew the local police captain. Yes, she eventually intervened to cancel my fine. But I certainly didn’t leave a good impression, let alone make a new friend. The whole situation took far too long to resolve.

Stopped by a police officer in Tamale, Ghana, for going down a one-way street the right way

So, how do you react unexpectedly?

Stay friendly and positive. View the situation as an opportunity to make new friends and learn more about the country. Show interest in the police officers by reciprocating the curiosity they’re showing toward you. Engage in a brief conversation—something like, "Which part of Tanzania are you from?" Even if the officer initially planned to ask for a dash (“Chai-money” as they call it here), they’ll likely forget about it once you start talking. Sometimes, they may even overlook (or forget) a minor infraction like speeding.

Remaining relaxed and friendly also has another benefit: it signals that you’re not expecting them to ask for money, ultimately giving them a good reputation to live up to. And if they do try to nudge you for money, use humor to deflect. Try something lighthearted like, “You wouldn’t ask me for money, would you?”

Anna with Officer Cynthia when our car broke down on Tanga Road

Traffic police officers in East Africa are, for the most part, wonderful and helpful people. And as with life, you often meet the same people again. When our alternator went up in smoke on Tanga Road, our car came to an involuntary stop at a police barrier. The officers recognized us from our earlier journey and signaled us to continue. Unfortunately, we couldn’t. While I checked the issue, Officer Cynthia (in civilian clothes in the photo above) entertained Anna, and Corporal Mohammed, the head of the barrier, flagged down a small bus to tow us to the next town.

On our larger overland trips (5,000+ km), we typically pass over 200 police barriers, get stopped maybe 30 times, and have never been asked for money at a single barrier. But we’ve certainly made many new friends throughout the region.