Virunga National Park Amidst Ongoing Conflict

Our daughter Anna heading towards the bridge that connects Uganda with the Democratic Republic of Congo

A Personal Reflection

The recent news of M23 rebels seizing parts of the war-torn city of Goma in the Democratic Republic of Congo has left me deeply concerned not only for the humanitarian crisis but also for the fate of the equally impacted Virunga National Park. This remarkable park, Africa’s most spectacular, lies in an area ravaged by decades of conflict, where numerous rebel groups and militias battle for control over the region’s rich mineral resources.

Virunga National Park, established by the Belgian colonial administration to protect the gorilla population, celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. With its unmatched landscape and biodiversity, Virunga is home to the endangered mountain gorillas, chimpanzees, the elusive okapi, as well as both forest and savannah elephants. No park in Africa offers such a vast array of ecosystems, stretching 300 kilometers (190 miles) along the Great Rift Valley from Lake Kivu to the Rwenzori Mountains and spanning elevations from at 680 to 5,110 meters (2,230 to 16,765 feet). Within the park’s boundaries, Nyiragongo, the world’s deadliest volcano (as described by National Geographic), looms over the city of Goma. This highly active volcano houses one of the largest lava lakes on Earth—miles deep and over 200 m (700 ft) across.

Virunga has long been a place of deep personal significance for my family, but the growing conflict has made it increasingly unsafe to visit. Rebel groups, including M23, have used the park as a hideout, further restricting access and endangering both the local population and the wildlife within the park. In recent years, Virunga has been closed to tourists multiple times due to the escalating violence.

Last year, my daughter Anna and I had hoped to visit Virunga from the Ugandan side by traveling to the Ishasha sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Anna, who has supported a chimpanzee orphan in Tchimpounga (Congo-Brazzaville), had long dreamed of visiting Virunga’s gorilla orphanage at Rumangabo, just 90 kilometers (56 miles) from the border. But as we arrived at the border crossing, we were informed that it had been closed for some time due to the intensifying conflict.

On our way to Virunga National Park, which is already visible in the background

At the Ishasha border post, we met a man and four children who had fled the violence on the Congolese side. Their eyes, tired and empty, reflected the trauma they likely had endured. Border police officers Richard and Moses explained that refugees like these were a daily occurrence, with Uganda offering one of the most welcoming refugee policies in the world. Refugees are allowed to work, send their children to school, and are even allotted land to farm. Yet, despite the hospitality, there is still the need for scrutiny to ensure that no militants cross into Uganda. Only months earlier, rebels had crossed into this area and brutally murdered a honeymooning British couple and their guide.

Anna with border policemen Moses and Richard at Ishasha river border crossing

Anna, as she normally does in every village we visit, tried to interact with the children. But they seemed distant, their minds elsewhere, lost in the trauma they had witnessed. Her innocent offer of Haribo gummies brought hesitant smiles to their faces.

Subsequently, I had some explaining to do, as my 6-year old was trying to make sense of what she had just witnessed. Why were the children there? Why did they seem so absent minded? And then: What is a civil war?

That night, we were assigned two UWA park rangers and two UPDF soldiers to ensure our safety. Lovely people who watched over our camp with diligence and professionalism, while night fell over Virunga National Park just across the river.

Sharing dinner with UWA park ranger Daniel

Our camp on the Ishsha river.

As I write this, much of Virunga’s southern and central sectors are under the control of the M23 rebels. The park’s rangers, who have long been the backbone of its conservation efforts, are struggling to maintain regular patrols. Without their presence, the endangered mountain gorilla population is at significant risk from poachers, snares, and human transmitted diseases.

Map of North Kivu Province in DRC along with of Virunga National Park’s Central and Southern Sectors

The ongoing conflict in eastern Congo has taken a huge toll on local communities. Instances of arbitrary killings, sexual violence and mass displacement have increased sharply since October 2022. The most recent estimates suggest 2.8 million people are now displaced in North Kivu province alone (Source: www.virunga.org).

The experience at the Ishasha border post weighed heavily on Anna, who was overwhelmed with emotions, when we left Queen Elizabeth National Park the following day. Yet, of course, this was nothing compared to the hundreds of thousands of people who have been directly traumatized, violated, or even killed by this brutal conflict.

Anna overwhelmed by the experience at Ishasha

I want to take a moment to express my deep gratitude to the Ugandan officials who ensured our safety at the border: Border police officers Richard and Moses, UWA station head Mr. Francis, and rangers Daniel and Nimrod. Their vigilance and kindness are deeply appreciated, as are the two UPDF soldiers who kept us safe during our stay.

The UPDF soldiers and UWA Rangers who kept us safe at Ishasha River Campground (Daniel and Nimrod in the center)

If this post has sparked your interest in Virunga National Park, I highly recommend watching the documentary Virunga on Netflix. It offers a poignant and powerful account of the park’s conservation efforts and the brave individuals working to protect it in the face of adversity.